Plateau Restaurant, Canary Wharf, London

It's a two minute walk from the Canary Wharf skyscraper itself, past sharp edged architecture and sharp suited financiers, to Canada Square. A dedicated lift – just like Le Jules Verne restaurant in the Eiffel Tower – ascends to the fourth floor of Canada Place where Plateau is located.

A dedicated lift isn't the only thing the two restaurants have in common. Head Chef Allan Pickett prepares modern French food albeit with a twist of British ingredients and European influences. Like Le Jules Verne, the interior of Plateau was designed in a retro sci fi style. But there the similarity ends for the environs of Plateau are more Manhattan than Montparnasse.

The layout of Plateau optimises its panoramic setting. A long symmetrical sequence of spaces has continuous glass frontage on one side and overhead glazing. Taking prime position in the centre is the restaurant itself alongside the bar and brasserie. These are balanced on either side by tented terraces ideal for a post dinner cigar. Dark clothed bankers appear as Lowry-like figures far below in the park.



Going strong since 2003, Plateau continues to set a very high standard which makes competitors pale in comparison. Conran & Partners' interior embraces modernity but with more than a hint of mid 20th century nostalgia. Eero Saarinen's white tulip chairs could be straight off the Barbarella film set and the cutlery is made to a David Mellor design of 1957. Plateau is the place to be seen (and see).

Achille Castigllioni's Arco lamp of 1962 positioned at regular intervals provides soft night time lighting. The inspiration behind Conran & Partners' muted colour scheme was the olive tree. Gentle tones of green, grey and brown create an oasis of calm away from the frenetic cityscape below. A shock of fuchsia contrasts with the monochrome of the marble table tops. As darkness falls, the angular architecture outside is illuminated by blue neon lights. The atmosphere changes from subdued to electric.

Staff are attentive and very well informed without being intrusive. The sommelier considers harmony with food and wine to be his goal. He achieves it, seemingly effortlessly. Attention to detail is evident from rolled butter in silver foil to fishbone volutes.

Each course is a highlight in itself. The food looks as good as it tastes. Scallops fitted snugly in a bowl have a freshness as if plucked from the Scottish seas that instant. The crab is divine. Accompanied by a shell razor clam, this is edible art and that's before the pudding with its intricate design arrives.

From amuse bouche to petit fours, Allan and his team excel. The restaurant at Plateau is haute cuisine at its best. The height of its location is matched by the high levels of service, food and wine.

Head Chef Allan Pickett, "I am passionate about sourcing only the finest produce to ensure an inspirational and seasonal menu. I have established a network of the most respected producers and where possible source from the British Isles."

More information: www.plateau-restaurant.co.uk